Blues, Bar-b-cue, and Rock and Roll

The blues are still pouring out on to Beale Street, the carriages still carry tourists, and the lights are still bright, but we are ready to call it a day. Today was a delicious taste of Memphis from Graceland to the Sun Studios, and Stax Museum of American Soul Music.

The sun was marvelously bright when we awoke before seven at the Holiday Inn Express. At breakfast, I chatted with the woman in charge of the buffet, Maggie, an attractive woman about my age with a ready laugh and a happy smile. I could tell that she was a soul sister and we had a good visit. I asked her what two places she would recommend that we visit today and she said Graceland and the Lorraine Motel, two contrasting sites and both important to the Memphis experience. She also shared other things about Memphis and her family. Her good bye hug was a good way to get the day started.

Graceland was everything that we had expected. We got there at opening time and the crowd was already building. Rob had told us to get the platinum ticket and do the whole shebang instead of going for the mansion only. He knows our proclivity for pinching pennies well! By the time we got the senior and AAA discounts, the price wasn't much more than the regular ticket. We rode the shuttle over to the house and toured it and the grounds. The thing I found the most remarkable was the reverence that most of the people showed at the site. It was much quieter than most crowds were in the major cathedrals of Europe.

After we had been through all the house, grounds, memorial garden, little museums, and gift shops, we found ourselves washed down with sweat and more than a little ready for lunch. We found a bar-b-cue joint that was advertising a half price rib tip plate. A & R was a joint, but their lunch was outstanding. We really liked their sweet sauce and we enjoyed the combo of beef and pork ribs served with a side of fried okra, slaw, and bread. We shared a plate and there was more than enough food for both of us. There was a steady stream of customers in and out, picking up orders.

We were disappointed when we got to the Civil Rights Museum that it was closed today. We met a helpful young man as we were looking for the entrance who asked us to come back tomorrow and ask for him. We headed next to Sun Records where we had the tour of the studio where Rock and Roll was born. It wasn't fancy, but when we left, we had a good understanding of the history. As we waited for the tour to begin, I collected another person, Vic who was manning the cash register and "holding forth."

By this time, I was getting a little cranky, but Klep pushed us forward and we headed down to another part of town to the Stax Museum of American Soul Music. The tour started with an excellent movie filled with information and good music. After that a self-guided tour took us through the exhibits, including Issac Hayes' 1972 Caddy. I was glad that Klep had persisted. We had the museum pretty much to ourselves. It was the least crowded of all the venues.

Our navigational device brought us to the Crown Plaza (Priceline.com reservation) by the scenic route with a drive by the mighty Mississippi River. We took a rest before we ventured back out for dinner at Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous along with almost every other tourist and businessman in Memphis tonight. The restaurant is in the basement of an old building several blocks north of Beale. We rode the trolley down to near the restaurant, put our names on the list, and waited for over an hour. We killed time people watching. I definitely did not have to feel under dressed with the other people there. My casual tee and capri pants was a little formal compared to many of the patrons.

The food was delicious, charcoal ribs done with a good dry rub. The atmosphere was interesting with the old brick walls and the tin covered ceilings. The service, once we were seated, was friendly and quick.

Beale street, our after dinner destination was ablaze in neon. We found an older group playing some good blues, but there were no seats. When they took a break, we headed up the street and called the hotel shuttle.

This place by the big river has a rich past, as rich as the soil that lines the banks of the river. This city has had more than its share of talent pass through it over the years. Beautiful homes line the high bluffs facing the river and sad, sad houses in disrepair occupy other sections. By and large, the most beautiful thing we have found here are the people who are warm and friendly. We feel right at home with those who call Memphis home.